Our debrief on SupBiotech Conference : the stakes of dermocosmetic R&D

In 2015, SupBiotech organized a conference about the R&D evolutions in the Dermo-cosmetological field. What will be Dermo Cosmetoogy in 10 years ? Which kind of innovations are expected ? How to satisfy the consumers’ expectations about safety and ecological responsability ? This event provided useful answers.

France is leader on the Cosmetics market

80 % of luxury and beauty products are made in France. French companies therefore have a major role in research and innovation. As said by Amandine Mahieux, R&D Manager of Cosmetic Valley, a cosmetic product is a formula, made to be applied on the skin to perfume it, protect it, or modify its look. The Cosmetics market represent 70 billions euros in Europe, and China, India and Russia will be in the Top 5 consumer countries in 2020. 

In an overall struggling pharmacy  market, dermocosmetics is perfoming well.

On the latest twelve months, its sales revenue increased of 1,3%, to reach 1,9 billions euros, according to IMS Health. New products are a large part of this dynamic market : More than 30 % of sales come from latest developments.

Traditional botanical Research / Peptide Research

In major groups and industries, laboratories are working on safety problems, botanics, clinical trials… Plants studies, active principles decoding, cultivation, axtraction, formulation… But beyond the vegetal field, a specific research field is focusing on molecules, peptides and assemblages of amino acids with specific purposes, like collagens.

Open Innovation is spreading

Dermocosmetics market is opening to the Open Innovation trend. Public and private partnerships are multiplying, and so are spreading gateways between pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industries.Le secteur s’adapte également à la tendance de l’open innovation. Collaborations with industries exist for a long time, but they tend to evolve with national and european collaborative programs. Some teams are dedicated to partnerships management, in medium-sized or large companies.